Lat: 29 15.591′ S
Lon: 177 57.388′ W

Every couple of days, we post a blog and get a weather update via our satellite phone. When we posted the last blog, and took a look at the weather, it didn’t look good. After 4 days of great sailing, our weather window was closing and we were due for some strong and/or contrary winds for several days. Fortunately, by making our easting near the Kermadec Islands, we had an opportunity to stop at the Kermadecs and wait for a better window to finish the passage to Fiji. We all agreed that even though the anchorages aren’t great, visiting a rare and remote location would be better than bashing to windward, so we motor-sailed to maintain our speed and get into Raoul Island before sunset.

Along the way, the weather was nice enough that we spent a lot of time on deck and were treated to a large pod of whales off to starboard as we sailed along the Kermadec Ridge. They were a bit too far off to identify the species, but their large, repeated blows stayed with us half an hour or so. We estimated that there were at least 10-20 and the occasional glimpses of their large grey bodies that we got through the binoculars were pretty impressive.

We radioed ahead to Raoul Island and they provided some advice on an anchoring location that agreed with our review of the chart — Denham Bay, a large bay with dangerous breaking surf along a mile-long beach should provide the best opportunity for protection from the north and east. As we sailed into the bay, which is the caldera of an old volcano, the water depth decreased to several hundred feet and we were joined by a pod of dolphins. They looked to be common dolphins and a couple were quite large. We were already happy to be taking a short break, but the large, playful dolphins added to the good spirits.

Approaching Raoul Island

Like many volcanic islands, Raoul Island is rugged and beautiful. Denham Bay is deceptively large. It doesn’t seem so large with the large cliffs that partially encircle it and the long, wide beach made of volcanic sand. There’s a rather large, rusted shipwreck on the beach that in context seems to be a rather small feature. We were getting ready to drop anchor in about 30 feet of water when we noticed a small figure on the beach that looked like it might be a person (or a turkey, according to Ash). A look through the binoculars confirmed that it was a person. After setting anchor, we radioed ashore and the figure on the beach answered. His name was Mike and he accepted our dinner invitation, so Ash and I readied the dinghy and paddled toward the shore to pick him up.

Even though weather was relatively calm, there was a large swell running from the ESE whose remnants wrapped around the point a bit and crashed on the beach. To avoid landing the dinghy, Mike swam out from the shore and climbed into the dinghy for the long paddle back to the boat. Lauren treated us all to delightful pasta and salad while Mike told us a bit about the island. It has a long and interesting history, but is now a nature and marine reserve with very strict rules. Without a permit, which we of course don’t have, it won’t be possible to land on the island. There are eight people on the island, four full-time staff that do a one year tour and four volunteers that are here for 6 months. Resupply by ship is typically at 6 month intervals. The work on the island is pretty varied. There is a weather station on the base where daily weather balloons have been launched since 1940, and much of the work now relates to freeing the island of non-native weeds (including rappelling down cliffs to pull out non-native vines). The island is still an active volcano which is carefully monitored after an unexpected death in the caldera in 2006. In general, it sounds like the accommodations and supplies are pretty good, but it is a bit of a solitary outpost. It is a pretty impressive and professional operation given the small staff size.

Getting to know Mike from the DOC

We thoroughly enjoyed our visit with Mike and wish him the best during the rest of his stay on the island. This morning we picked him up from the beach again to sign the guestbook and he brought us a nice gift of citrus fruit (saved from scurvy for another week).

Thanks to Tim as well for helping us out with the chartplotter problem. He contacted Raymarine and e-mailed us a fix that worked, so we’re pretty much all sorted except for the engine starting batteries, which will need to be replaced in Fiji.

The wind off the cliffs is strong here, so we’ll most likely be on anchor watch some nights until the weather is good for leaving. The water is really warm and clear, so we’re hoping for a swim during our stay. We do have to be a bit careful, as the island is well-known for having a lot of sharks and a couple were swimming under the boat within minutes of anchoring. Most are a bit curious but harmless and the guys here surf with them in plain sight under and around their boards.