The rain and wind continued, with the wind forecast to increase, so we decided to stay put for a day or two.

We made it into town just in time to see the pilgrimage/procession yesterday. Jeahu and Jimmy and the local policeman went ahead to clear the way and act as security, but the town was empty except for the people in the procession, wandering dogs, and crabs. The centerpiece of the procession was a Virgin Mary on a pedestal that was carried on a litter formed by two long, yellow canoe hulls. There were so many flowers and coconut palm weavings on the litter that I didn’t notice the small statue of Mary until about halfway through. They started at one end of town proceeded along the street, alternating between singing and saying a sort of chant. They stopped several times at pre-determined spots, where the double canoe was set on a table and there was a short sermon with more singing. Rain drizzled occasionally throughout the procession, but umbrellas appeared for some, with the less involved and young children taking cover under coconut trees or the awnings of nearby houses. All of the men involved in the ceremonies wore plain white robes, except for the bishop, who had gold trim and a special design on the front of his robe.

Raking the gravel road the day before the procession

The procession getting underway

A dog catches some relief from the rain under the canoe during one of the stops

There were about 60 people at the gathering at the end of the road where the main street in town abruptly turns into a small beach at the edge of the lagoon. They had set up a shelter for the speakers and canoe and there were old plastic chairs from the city of Fakarava for people to sit in. We stayed for most of the service, including a sermon by the bishop and plenty of singing before leaving to make it back to the boat before dark.

Makeshift chapel at the end of the road just starting construction

It was a pretty site for a service, at the edge of the lagoon with the wind blowing through the coconut trees and whipping up whitecaps on the turquoise water of the lagoon. As we’ve been told, their singing was amazing. They typically sang acapella in four part harmony, though there was guitar and ukulele accompaniment during part of the service. Much of the ceremony was in the local language, but parts were done in French as well, so we were able to pick up a little bit of what they were saying.

Pura Vida at anchor in the lagoon