Over the last few days it seems we have started to fall into a nice routine of anchoring in a beautiful place for 1-2 nights, exploring what it has to offer, and moving on to the next one. As Dallas mentioned, we stopped at Hana Tefau Bay last night, and despite the favorable reports from the cruising guide about this bay, it was more adventure than we’d bargained for. The anchor never budged, but we were at the edge of a cliff and swung through more than 180 degrees during the course of the night as a dead calm would grow to 30-50 knot gusts every 10-15 minutes. Dallas had a sleepless night, getting up every 15 minutes to check our position. He declined my repeated offers to relieve him of anchor watch, but in truth, he probably wouldn’t have slept anyway.

I woke up around 6 a.m. to the sound of knocking on the boat and whistling. I thought that perhaps a Marquesan from Hapatoni village and stopped over for a visit, but instead, I found Dallas trying to communicate with several large schools of dolphins in the bay! It was a very pleasant sight, but I needed a couple more hours sleep. When I awoke, I was surprised to find them still around. Dallas was attempting to snap pictures of them jumping in the air and spinning, sometimes making 3-4 rotations before splashing down just a second or two later. It was virtually impossible to point the camera in the just the right direction at just the right time. Eventually I talked him into abandoning the effort in favor of hopping in and swimming with them. He didn’t regret it, to say the least. Dolphins in the wild are not like they are at Sea World, though. They did not seem to know what to make of us and may have even tried to avoid us, but we were still able to have a few close encounters. We could hear them talking to each other (presumably) and managed to take a few underwater pics of their sleek bodies moving in perfect sync with each other. It was very memorable.

Spinner dolphin high in the air after several revolutions

Spinner dolphin high in the air after several revolutions

Doesn't compare to being there, but cool nonetheless

Doesn't compare to being there, but cool nonetheless

There wasn’t much else in the water this morning except for a few fish (that disappeared as soon as we put lines in the water) and plankton. The water was thick with it, and you could see the diverse individual organisms, from the little (<1″) pieces to very long and skinny snake-looking ones. We are pretty sure that they weren’t snakes but avoided them anyway.

After our swim, Dallas, Tiff, and I jumped into the dinghy and headed back into Hapatoni village in search of the artisans. The few small powerboats and outriggers with outboard motors that we had seen the day before were gone, probably because the men of the village took them to work in one of the larger towns. We did not find any wood carvers at the workshop initially but were directed by a local to the large, open-air public building where we had seen people playing BINGO yesterday. I asked about the artisans and was told to come in, whereupon I started asking the women inside what they were up to. One woman explained in Franglais (French/English) that she was making costumes for a play that her group of 3-5 year olds were putting on for the village at the end of the month. We then noticed other women setting up a display of wooden items on two tables and walked over to find that they were doing so for our benefit. The art on display included over 50 items created from sandalwood and bone of various animals including marlin spike and pig tusk. In addition to jewelry, many items had functional or historical value. Dallas and I selected a ceremonial lance; a tiki is carved into the sandalwood handle, which is connected to the fishbone spike with the joint covered by woven strands of coconut fiber. The items ranged in value from $20 (tiki necklaces) to over $200 (large decorative wooden paddles)–more than one might expect from artisans at such a small village, but a great bargain given the quality and the probable price they will sell for in Tahiti. In addition, we were able to meet the artist (a surprisingly young man), which adds to the experience.

Browsing local art

Browsing local art

Since Tiffany had not yet seen Hapatoni village, we walked up the ancient road again. We passed the powerhouse for the village and noticed that since it was Monday, it was open and manned by two Marquesans. We asked them if we could take a look inside. There was a fairly large, 4-cylinder, Perkins generator that powers the entire village. Unlike Isabela Island in the Galapagos, theirs runs 24/7, so there are no electrical interruptions.

As we returned on the road next to the beach strewn with volcanic rock and white coral, we noticed something that we have been meaning to include in our blogs. On volcanic beaches, one can hear a crackling noise when the waves flow back over the rocks and out into the ocean. It’s probably one of those you-have-to-be there kind of things, but we thought it worth mentioning, as it’s unusual to those of us who are accustomed to sandy beaches.

On the way back to the dinghy, an outgoing 11-year-old girl approached us. She spoke French at just the right level of sophistication to match my conversational skills. I learned that she is on vacation from school until August 11 and enjoys it because she can just go surfing with her friends. I could have had a similar conversation with a kid on any coast. Some things are universal.

Not long after we returned to the boat, we pulled the anchor and motorsailed back to the north coast of Hiva Oa. We decided to stop at a lovely bay called Hanamenu where we are the only boat. The four of us went ashore in the dinghy to take a bath in the refreshing freshwater pool that we had read about in the cruising guide. What the guide did not mention is that there is now a family living here beside the bay. The woman was sitting outside near a fire, and I approached and introduced myself. She was very friendly and asked us to sit down with she and her husband. We learned that they had been living there with their adopted son for only 6 months (hence, they were not included in the cruising guide). They agreed that it was very tranquil there with the exception of the no-nos (although the smoke from the coconut husk fire worked to fend them off) and mosquitos. They were very kind and welcomed us to use the pool, chop wood, and anything else we might require. Apparently they are used to weekend visitors from the southside of Hiva Oa, despite that one can only arrive there by boat or horse. I am planning to take them some cookies today when we go to use the pool once again.

Hanamenu Bay is the one on the left

Hanamenu Bay is the one on the left

The cool freshwater streaming down from the mountain made for a glorious bath surrounded by mountains, palms, and wild horses, although it took some of us (Dallas) several minutes to work up the nerve to get in and immersed. The especially amusing part of the experience was that upon getting back into dinghy to return to the boat nice and clean, we took on a few waves as they pushed us back ashore and became salty once again. I think it’s inevitable, but I’m sure you don’t feel too sorry for us right about now!

Last night was incredibly quiet and serene. There were no lights whatsoever except for the multitude of stars, and no sounds except for the waves washing up on shore and crashing against the base of the cliffs that line both sides of the bay.

This morning (Tuesday) I gave Dallas a much-needed haircut (his first since Shelter Bay Marina in Panama). We are now going to take care of laundry (using the freshwater ashore) and boat tasks (e.g., cleaning up the rusty anchor chain) prior to heading off to Ua Pou, about 60 miles away. We should arrive there just after sunrise tomorrow and look forward to a spectacular view of the spire-shaped volcanic peaks.